This post is about the Montparnasse and other Paris locations described in my novel Loving Modigliani — the studios, ateliers, art academies, taverns, frequented by Modigliani & Jeanne as they are today. It takes up from the previous blog, where I discuss my “deep map method” used in researching & building their world. The book has been called “a living map of Montparnasse,” and praised by Kirkus as “brilliantly researched, imaginative, cross-genre historical fiction”.
“We followed the route I usually took to Montparnasse on my way to lessons at the academy in 10 Rue de la Grande Chaumière, or to the studio where I lived with Modi at number 8. I used to love walking to school in early morning, delighting in the smells—steam and soap from the laundries, fresh horse manure in the street; the blue smoke from the chestnut vendors mingling with buttery gusts from the bakeries and coffee percolating in dim cafés where sleepy waiters would be tying on their aprons and polishing tabletops with rags…” -from Loving Modigliani
Art Academies & Studios Rue de la Grande Chaumière
The Art Academy frequented by Modigliani and Jeanne was the Academie Colarossi, located in Rue de la Grande Chaumiere at number 10. Modigliani also hung out at the life drawing classes at the Academie de la Grande Chaumiere, located at number 14 on that same street. Classrooms were heated with charcoal stoves in winter — partly so that the nude models wouldn’t complain of the cold. The Academie Colarossi was considered progressive because it admitted female students. Women could also enroll at the Academie Julian – only they had to pay more for their lessons. At the Academie Julian, women’s classes were separate from men’s.
The Colarossi is long gone, but the Academie de la Grande Chaumiere is still functioning as an art school, and has retained its very old-fashioned façade of years ago.
Number 8, Rue de la Grande Chaumiere is the address of the studio where Jeanne and Modi lived together, next door to the Academie Colarossi. Most reports say their flat was located on the top floor – while others say, it was one floor down! There is a plaque on the building attesting to the fact that both Modigliani, and before him, Gauguin had studios there.
Modigliani painted the walls of his studio ochre and orange to enhance the sunlight streaming in from the huge windows. Often Jeanne would retire to a small alcove in the L- shaped flat, while Modigliani was working with a model. But sometimes they worked together, painting the same model. Jeanne’s work sometimes contextualizes the model in the studio setting – with small objects that were part of the décor, while Modi. usually abstracted figures against a blank background.
Unfortunately, you aren’t allowed to visit the studio or enter the building.
The street is very quiet today and elegant, no longer thronged with penniless artists and rowdy students as it must have been in those days. It has maintained an artsy vibe with its art schools and shops selling art supplies and handsome art books. The historic seller of painters supplies, Sennelier, who invented “oil pastels” at Picasso’s request, has a shop at number 4bis, but this location did not open until 1936, so Modigliani and Jeanne did not shop here for canvases or colors.
At number 10, where the Colarossi Academy once stood, there is now a restaurant: Wadja, whose retro décor evokes the atmosphere of Modigliani’s era. At number 15, is a classy hotel which pays homage to the artists of Montparnasse, offering a café atelier and organizing courses together with the local arts academy. https://hoteldesacademies.fr/le-cafe-atelier
Bertha Weil Gallery
Bertha Weill was an art dealer and collector – and the first woman ever to open an art gallery. Throughout her long career, her gallery changed location several times. It started in Montmartre in 1901 as a tiny shop where paintings -sometimes still damp– were hung on a line, pegged up with clothespins stretched across the space. Modigliani had a show in her gallery located in Via Taibout 50 in 1917, exhibiting one of his famous nudes. Police shut the show down however as soon as it opened, as he had painted “real pubic hair “ on his nude, and not simply a discreet dark shadow. Now the space at Via Taibout is a co-working space for global nomads.
The cafés and canteens of Montparnasse
These were the centers of the artists’ social life, intellectual exchange, seductions, confessions, brawls, binges, and inspiration. For the poorer artists, cafes were also places to sleep or use the lavatory in the morning before being turned out to the streets. For Modi & Jeanne, their favorite hangouts were the Café du Dome & the Rotonde, still located today at the same addresses as way back then. The Coupole hadn’t been built yet.
Avenue de Maine
Not to be confused with Rue de Maine, which is nearby. Turning off the busy thoroughfare onto Avenue de Maine, you’ll find yourself in another era –in the Chemin de Montparnasse. This pedestrian lane is lined with low-slung buildings covered with vines, which have resisted the modernization of the surrounding area. At number 21, Russian cubist artist Marie Vassilieff had her studio, and for a time ran a cheap eatery for artists and intellectuals where Modigliani used to go, along with Picasso and Trotsky. Legend claims Lenin dined there once, too. When Vassilieff opened her canteen, France, like the rest of Europe, was at war and a curfew was in effect throughout Paris. Her canteen operated as a private club, and so could remain open, hosting parties and gatherings till late into the night. Many of the artists were away fighting at the front so her clientele included foreigners like Modigliani and Picasso, who remained in Paris during the war. The walls were covered with paintings by Chagall and sketches by Modigliani.
The building has seen various transformations since then. From 1996 to 2015, it was the site of the Musée de Montparnasse, dedicated to the artists of the quarter. It then became Villa Vassilieff, center for art and research which closed 2020. It now houses AWARE, the Archive of Women Artists, Research, and Exhibitions.
Rue Campagne-Premiere
Chez Rosalie, where Modi often dined with Jeanne ( She wouldn’t always eat with him, as her parents expected her home for dinner) was located in Rue Campagne-Premiere, where many cheap lodging houses for artists were located.
It was run by Rosalia Tobia, who had come to Paris from Italy to work as a maid for an Italian noblewoman, and ended up modeling for artists in Montparnasse, including Redon and Whistler. Ending her modeling career, she opened her restaurant, proposing cheap, home-cooked Italian style food, which became very popular among the artists of Montparnasse. Modigliani was a great favorite of hers, and he loved the opportunity to gossip in Italian with the proprietress. She later claimed she would put extra garlic in Modi’s food when Jeanne was away, so that he would be less appealing to other women. Given his tremendous sex appeal, it probably didn’t work. This photo conveys the cozy atmosphere. On rainy days, the floor would be strewn with sawdust. Modigliani was known to take the guitar off the wall and strum a tune or two.
The next installment will focus on Jeanne Hèbuterne’s home and neighborhood.
The Magic Library of Bomarzo 
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